Recommendation For An Bicycle

[The Knimbies who say No]

Agree with StainlessSteelCat re the linked bike, not bad although 7 speed is pretty ancient these days, maybe like buying a new car with a 4 speed box. Bike manufacturers seem good at wringing the last from their tooling investments of 3 decades ago.

[justthisbloke]

Not at all the same as cars - a four speed car would (I presume[1]) be pretty crap whereas a one speed bike is pretty good.

Nobody (except marketeers) needs 30+ gears on a bike. And a commuter certainly benefits from the robustness of fewer speeds.

Seven speed chain width: 7.3mm.

Eleven speed chain width: 5.5mm IIRC.

The whole drivetrain is chunkier and less prone to wear if you're running 7 speed chain. And it'll give you 21 gears which is more than enough.

[1] Don't ask me, though - my car has 1 gear.

[The Knimbies who say No]

Not at all the same as cars - a four speed car would (I presume[1]) be pretty crap whereas a one speed bike is pretty good.

Nobody (except marketeers) needs 30+ gears on a bike. And a commuter certainly benefits from the robustness of fewer speeds.

Seven speed chain width: 7.3mm.

Eleven speed chain width: 5.5mm IIRC.

The whole drivetrain is chunkier and less prone to wear if you're running 7 speed chain. And it'll give you 21 gears which is more than enough.

[1] Don't ask me, though - my car has 1 gear.

Just meant more from a future compatibility point of view. Buying a 7 speed means running a 7 speed forever, or single speed conversion thingy, unless you buy a new rear wheel. Get an 8 speed and you can move to 11 should you wish. Doubt there would be much between durability of 7 and 8 speed, and the parts are similarly cheap ie approximately free.

Bigger range at rear allows simplification elsewhere too, three of my four bikes have one front chainring, and hence only 1 shifter and mech with 8, 9 and 10 speed cassettes out back. The other is a 3x10 road triple, very unfashionable but enjoyable close ratios.

Single speed is well worth considering if the terrain allows, the lack of maintenance will be pleasing and you can bowl along.

[Frank Hovis]

I have an bicycle.

I was going to get a mountain bike but I was dissuaded because of the weight and nobbly tyres which would all make it much harder to pedal up hills so I compromised on a hybrid; in retrospect I would prefer to have bought a road bike as for me bikes are about travelling distance at speed.

One thing I would throw in (it may already be covered) is watch what brakes you buy. I didn't know the difference and have hydraulic disc brakes front and rear. These are excellent brakes but are above what I need and the nature of the system means that you can't lay your bike down for any length of time without having to bleed the system; I had to take it into a bike shop to get them to do this and the first smaller one didn't even do it.

So if I had my choice again I would buy a road bike which was fairly light with normal block brakes and brake cables and would then be using it a lot more.

[justthisbloke]

Just meant more from a future compatibility point of view. Buying a 7 speed means running a 7 speed forever, or single speed conversion thingy, unless you buy a new rear wheel. Get an 8 speed and you can move to 11 should you wish. Doubt there would be much between durability of 7 and 8 speed, and the parts are similarly cheap ie approximately free.

Ah, understood.

(For non bike blokes): It uses a freewheel to connect cogs to rear wheel. Freewheels take a max of 7 cogs. For more gears, you need to use a freehub - and replacing a freewheel with a freehub means rebuilding the wheel (or buying a new one with freehub fitted).

[porca misèria]

Ah, understood.

(For non bike blokes): It uses a freewheel to connect cogs to rear wheel. Freewheels take a max of 7 cogs. For more gears, you need to use a freehub - and replacing a freewheel with a freehub means rebuilding the wheel (or buying a new one with freehub fitted).

Pah.

It's only a generation or so since ten-speed (2x5) was the best it gets. My first long-distance tour was on a bike bought in and for the flat lands of Cambridge, so I did some of the Lake District's legendary passes on a 42-22 (51.5 inch) bottom gear

[ccc]

I have an bicycle.

I was going to get a mountain bike but I was dissuaded because of the weight and nobbly tyres which would all make it much harder to pedal up hills so I compromised on a hybrid; in retrospect I would prefer to have bought a road bike as for me bikes are about travelling distance at speed.

One thing I would throw in (it may already be covered) is watch what brakes you buy. I didn't know the difference and have hydraulic disc brakes front and rear. These are excellent brakes but are above what I need and the nature of the system means that you can't lay your bike down for any length of time without having to bleed the system; I had to take it into a bike shop to get them to do this and the first smaller one didn't even do it.

So if I had my choice again I would buy a road bike which was fairly light with normal block brakes and brake cables and would then be using it a lot more.

Mechanical disc brakes have rapidly become the norm for road bikes already from what I see.

In terms of hydraulic - my mountain bike had Juicys previously - a nightmare to bleed. I changed them to Shimano Deore and bleeding is a very simple process now.

[gibbon]

Thanks really like the look of those Dutch bikes but I live in a very hilly city, can't even imagine those modified ones with a few gears cutting it. I've also seen the weight of the modern ones they are calling Traditional bikes and they are hitting 20kg. Can't see me getting a 20kg bike loaded with gear and only a few gears up any hills.

I'm writing off that £160 Carrera Parva seeing as I didn't realise they don't do a 22" model and I'm 6'3". They got a 20" model but I'm thinking with my height that would be too small?

How about this one http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes/carrera-subway-2-hybrid-bike-2015 its £100 quid more but it's also the same bike justthisbloke posted a link to where someone turned it into a decent tourer http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=36102

I'm hesitant to buy a £200+ bike off ebay without knowing what the hell I'm looking at.

[porca misèria]

Thanks really like the look of those Dutch bikes but I live in a very hilly city,

In that case you do not want a cheap bike. A big dreary slog on the uphill, and a hazard to life and limb on the downhill.

Think four figures for that budget.

[Rave]

Decathlon are also worth a look, if you have one near you their own range bikes are often decent value.

I was going to say this too. Their own brand bikes are called B'Twin so look out for them secondhand. They are excellent value new, and so presumably they are similarly good value secondhand! Their current range doesn't really include any lightweight hybrids though sadly, they do fully equipped touring style hybrids which come with mudguards, rack etc. but they're bloody heavy, 18kg or so! They do a range of 'flat bar' road bikes which are basically identical to their drop bar road bikes but with flat bars and MTB shifters- and so I daresay they are very fast, but probably not ideal for fitting mudguards and a rack.

I personally get around town on a cheap B'Twin road bike I bought in their sale about 8 years ago. It's been great. I almost never get down on the drops, I ride most of the time on the top of the bars or the hoods; braking on the hoods with bog standard caliper brakes is fine, although I very nearly hit a car that turned right in front of me a couple of months ago as I only had my right hand on the brake lever, and couldn't shift my left hand once I'd slammed the front brake on as that would have unbalanced me. Had to brake pretty hard on Sunday when the car I was trying to whizz behind as a row of traffic moved off suddenly stopped to let someone pushing a bike cross the road in front of them, and my hood braking was enough to lock the back wheel. I have found that riding on the hoods actually puts your torso at pretty much the same angle as riding on the drops, I just find it a more comfortable position.

That said, when I actually used to commute 3-4 miles by bike, which was a while ago now, I used a mountain bike with semi-slicks on and it was great, I could hop kerbs and jump potholes with impunity. Once you've put a set of Schwalbe Marathons or similar on a 26" MTB it's going to be 90% as quick as a road bike, comfy to ride, easy to handle etc. Disc brakes have been standard on even fairly cheap MTBs for a while now, and they'd be great for town use, partly because the braking is usually pretty strong, but mainly because maintenance is minimal; rim brakes need adjusting as the pads wear to keep them hitting the rim squarely.

So, my best advice, which chimes with what a lof of other people have been saying, is buy a barely used secondhand MTB from someone who used it for a summer and then stuck it in the shed, then fit slicks, guards and a rack, and you'll be set. Try and get one with an aluminium frame; it'll probably have suspension forks but I wouldn't worry about it, they only add a kilo or so in weight. I would avoid anything with Shimano Tourney, it really just exists to allow manufacturers of BSOs to get the Shimano name on their bike. Altus is the minimum you should look at, Acera or Alivio will be better, and anything with Deore or better on will be great (my B'Twin MTB bought for £400 in last year's sale has full Deore so it could quite possibly be found on a £200 secondhand bike). I, and most other people, dislike twistgrip shifters; Shimano Rapidfire shifters are very good and easy to use.

Just purely as an example of what might be suitable, found this one on the first page of an ebay search for 'mountain bike':

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GT-Aggressor-Mountain-Bike-20-Frame-Disc-Brakes-/272365968232?hash=item3f6a46db68:g:uksAAOSw8oFXzcyX

Cable disks should work fine for town, and you've no worries about bleeding them etc.

[ccc]

I too used a MTB with semi slicks on and panniers for getting to work and back for a number of years. Would still today but I live close enough to walk. I quite like the extra solidness you get with it. Front suspension with lock out - so you can essentially switch it off - is very handy too. But I quite often just kept it active - as above being able to just go over bumps and the rest without a thought is pretty good.

Marathon plus + 1,000,000

I would still carry a basic repair kit - but didn't really need to. These things are quite heavy - but literally puncture proof.

Depends what the OP wants. Either a decent MTB with semi slicks or a hybrid will do you fine and be enjoyable to ride. Do you want something that feels a bit chunkier and solid or lighter and nippier ? That's the only real question outstanding from what you have said IMO.

[council dweller]

Yes, I have an bicycle too.

Starting with an Raleigh bicycle from 1985 , new wheels (Shimano) and a new 8 speed sprocket......then I gave up.

No point in spending more money, £90 was enough.

I`ve now given up cycling.

[gibbon]

I've got a old Giant XTC MTB which I've recently rescued from my parents place. It's in quite a state of disrepair, but am going to get it back up together. However I thought it would be a shame to stick on road tyres, panniers etc on it as it might be quite nice to do some of the local off road trails with it when I get it back in working order, while keeping a kitted up hybrid as a work horse for getting around.

Have taken a look on Decathlon, this road bike with flat handlebars looks pretty nice but doesn't look like it'll take proper mud guards or panniers http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-flat-bar-road-bike-black-id_8322664.html

These two hybrids of theirs are fully kitted out for touring and don't look that bad: http://www.decathlon.co.uk/original-520-hybrid-bike-id_8353018.html and http://www.decathlon.co.uk/hoprider-520-city-hybrid-bike-id_8307666.html

What sort of weight increase are you talking about by adding full mudguards, panniers and LED lights? 3kg?

[ccc]

My rear pannier doubles as a mud guard. And I just use a basic plastic clip under one for the front. Very little extra weight. Although the rear pannier is pretty solid and clearly weighs a bit.

[justthisbloke]

I know they weight approximately 3 tonnes but I'll support the suggestion of Marathon Pluses for tyres. I'm running them at the moment. A bit of a faff to fit but they really are bomb proof. For a bike you actually rely on to get around, they're ideal. Any time lost in speed is easily made up by not having to do roadside puncture repairs in the pissing rain and darkness.

[sisyphal]

Stay away from Muddyfox. I know a couple of people who have bought new ones in the past few years and they had endless trouble with pedals falling off, brakes coming loose or rubbing, faulty gears, warped wheels, cracking plastic bits, etc. They can also be really heavy.

I always wanted a Muddyfox as a kid, but never got one.

Is it a completely different brand these days, taken over by Sports Direct? If so file alongside Karrimor, Lonsdale, Slazenger, Everlast etc as stuff that used to be good but is not low quality imported stuff.

[ccc]

I know they weight approximately 3 tonnes but I'll support the suggestion of Marathon Pluses for tyres. I'm running them at the moment. A bit of a faff to fit but they really are bomb proof. For a bike you actually rely on to get around, they're ideal. Any time lost in speed is easily made up by not having to do roadside puncture repairs in the pissing rain and darkness.

They are actually a breeze to fit using your hands only - if you follow a certain technique some old bloke has one youtube. Wouldn't believe it myself until I tried it !!

Previously putting them on was like a work out.

[justthisbloke]

They are actually a breeze to fit using your hands only - if you follow a certain technique some old bloke has one youtube. Wouldn't believe it myself until I tried it !!

Previously putting them on was like a work out.

I found a method somewhere on the internet that involved using your foot. Effectively, you use the whole wheel as a tyre lever. It worked like a dream.

I ended up searching for a Better Way as I'd just broken two tyre levers and worked up a lot of sweat and cursing in a failed attempt to fit them!

[ccc]

I found a method somewhere on the internet that involved using your foot. Effectively, you use the whole wheel as a tyre lever. It worked like a dream.

I ended up searching for a Better Way as I'd just broken two tyre levers and worked up a lot of sweat and cursing in a failed attempt to fit them!

This other way is even better. It actually takes no effort. From any part of your body. Very simple really as well. You just make sure you use the full depth of the wheel when moving the tire into place.

Just youtube "How to fit a marathon plus tyre".

Its an old bloke. Well worth watching.

[justthisbloke]

I think you must mean this video:

I remember seeing it at the time. Trouble was I didn't have any old straps, shoelaces, or other cordage knocking around.

Damned if I can find the instructions I followed at the time - maybe I'll have to make my own vid.

[ccc]

I just used duct tape I think. Yep - make your own vid to add to the list !

[winkie]

[Compukit UK101]

In relation to Schwalbe Marathon Plus (post: justthisbloke 7.51am)

Also dont rule out regular Schwalbe Marathon (not plus) which are almost as good at 2/3 the price. They are probably easier than the plus version to get on the wheel too.

I have been using them for about 1 year with no punctures. I rode from Cowes IOW to St Catherine's point and back (some of which was quite rutted farm tracks) and they held up just fine.

[The Masked Tulip]

I know they weight approximately 3 tonnes but I'll support the suggestion of Marathon Pluses for tyres. I'm running them at the moment. A bit of a faff to fit but they really are bomb proof. For a bike you actually rely on to get around, they're ideal. Any time lost in speed is easily made up by not having to do roadside puncture repairs in the pissing rain and darkness.

I got the next ones down - the eco ones that have a slightly thinner green strip in them rather than the blue. Mainly went on prices as they were on offer at half the price of the blues at the time.

[hayder]

rutland cycles usually do some decent "last year models" for 50% off sometimes.

another nice option are the B'twin bikes which are the own brand of decathlon.