Fury As Petrol Hits £1.40 A Litre

[Bloo Loo]

Yes, that's true, which is why I'm not selling it.

It's true that I'm just about to get the brakes replaced and the cambelt done, and that will be about a £600 bill including a service. A 'wear and tear' cost of course, and very little spread over the time I'll own it.

My mechanic (absolute gem of a guy) suggests that as long as the oil gets changed every 10k the car should be good for 150k without a hitch.

A mechanical part can break at any time.

but you do know...it WILL break.

I think my Toyota...95K, still feels new.....specially when I change the tyres...Mrs Loo says she would agree if I ever cleaned the damn thing.

[Frank Hovis]

What are people's opinions on mileage for buying 2nd hand cars ?

From my experience, and of people I know, it seems 60k is the common point at which a lot of stuff starts needing replaced. Very little hassle before that. Planning to buy next car at about 40k, drive it to 60k, then sell it and rinse and repeat.

Good plan ?

I know somebody who had this as a standard rule for many years but stopped doing this recently because cars are that much more reliable and he now keeps them to about 80k.

The majority of people I work with keep cars until they start going seriously wrong, most of their cars are 8 - 14 years old and still go through MOTs first time.

What you want to do is work out what annual depreciation you are happy with and then what strategy works with that. I'm happy with £2k a year which means, with trade-in, a decent car every 4 years or so. There are several on here who want minimal deprecation so buy an £1k car and keep it for 4 years, I've done this in the past as well. Horses for courses.

[ken_ichikawa]

What are people's opinions on mileage for buying 2nd hand cars ?

From my experience, and of people I know, it seems 60k is the common point at which a lot of stuff starts needing replaced. Very little hassle before that. Planning to buy next car at about 40k, drive it to 60k, then sell it and rinse and repeat.

Good plan ?

120K-150K these days is when major parts fail. Though there is also a time factor to consider as well.

[guitarman001]

What do you reckon about me running my 35mpg Ford Focus into the ground rather than buying a better efficiency car?

[Harry Monk]

What are people's opinions on mileage for buying 2nd hand cars ?

From my experience, and of people I know, it seems 60k is the common point at which a lot of stuff starts needing replaced. Very little hassle before that. Planning to buy next car at about 40k, drive it to 60k, then sell it and rinse and repeat.

Good plan ?

It depends. If it has been a rep's car and has spent the vast majority of its life cruising on the motorway at 80mph then it will barely be worn in. If it has been a minicab doing 60k miles of urban journeys it will be totally shagged out.

[ken_ichikawa]

What do you reckon about me running my 35mpg Ford Focus into the ground rather than buying a better efficiency car?

You'll have to drive 100000s of miles to get the difference back, just keep it and run it into the ground. I'm doing the same with my CBR, though it is a hard bike to kill, videos on youtube show that without major servicing it can get to 300,000 miles.

[ccc]

I know somebody who had this as a standard rule for many years but stopped doing this recently because cars are that much more reliable and he now keeps them to about 80k.

The majority of people I work with keep cars until they start going seriously wrong, most of their cars are 8 - 14 years old and still go through MOTs first time.

What you want to do is work out what annual depreciation you are happy with and then what strategy works with that. I'm happy with £2k a year which means, with trade-in, a decent car every 4 years or so. There are several on here who want minimal deprecation so buy an £1k car and keep it for 4 years, I've done this in the past as well. Horses for courses.

Thanks for that. Not too bothered about depreciation. I suppose it goes both ways. You are going to have to pay more initially for a carw ith lower depreciation. And on the other hand one with bad depreciation will cost you less initially - but lose more of its value as you have it.

Maybe it is just my car that started to go wrong at 60k ? Diesel VW and been pretty reliable up to this point. Nothing 'broken' really just a lot suddenly needing changed.

I suppose I could just get one at 40k and then keep it until repairs start to appear. Whether that be 60k or 80k doesn't really matter I suppose.

120K-150K these days is when major parts fail. Though there is also a time factor to consider as well.

Aye, it is the minor parts that are the problem !!

Are they just not as well built as the engine etc.. ? Or is it just what they do that results in them needing repaired more often. Thinking suspension arms, water pumps etc..

Although ******ing pot holes/ difficult to see speed bumps are doing my nut in. Pretty much need a spring changed every time I have a service/MOT. Adds up to a lot.

[ccc]

It depends. If it has been a rep's car and has spent the vast majority of its life cruising on the motorway at 80mph then it will barely be worn in. If it has been a minicab doing 60k miles of urban journeys it will be totally shagged out.

Aye, I am thinking of a single owner mid fifties bloke estate type car.

More chance they have driven it carefully, done everything when they are supposed to, kept all the records etc..

I don't want a housewifes car though. I know they generally drive slower than blokes but the way they just fire over speed bumps/kerbs without even blinking worries me !!

An average 55 yo bloke would probably have a look of pain on his face after hitting a kerb by accident.

[LiveinHope]

120K-150K these days is when major parts fail. Though there is also a time factor to consider as well.

Last car did over 250K (peugeot 205 diesel) and still returned 60mpg up to the point it hit a tractor

The only replacement in its life was a radiator and cam belts, apart from the usual wear and tear parts. Same clutch throughout.

Now have a Peugeot 206SW 1.4 diesel bought at 13k miles. Service interval every 20k (although I change the oil every 10k),

35 quid tax, 150 quid fully comp insurance and 70+ to the gallon on a long run. 60mpg the rest of the time. Very cheap motoring.

Great engine and good acceleration for a diesel, low ground clearance only drawback

[ken_ichikawa]

Aye, it is the minor parts that are the problem !!

Are they just not as well built as the engine etc.. ? Or is it just what they do that results in them needing repaired more often. Thinking suspension arms, water pumps etc..

Although ******ing pot holes/ difficult to see speed bumps are doing my nut in. Pretty much need a spring changed every time I have a service/MOT. Adds up to a lot.

Buy a tool kit, my £200 of tools has paid itself back many times. Not to mention I do minor repairs and services on other peoples cars for ££. Though strangely self repair cannot beat kwikfit's oil change and filter change @ £25.

Changing suspension springs isn't hard. I managed a field repair on my motorbike after it collasped. You do have to be careful though as the springs are powerful enough to go right through you.

[ken_ichikawa]

Last car did over 250K (peugeot 205 diesel) and still returned 60mpg up to the point it hit a tractor

The only replacement in its life was a radiator and cam belts, apart from the usual wear and tear parts. Same clutch throughout.

Now have a Peugeot 206SW 1.4 diesel bought at 13k miles. Service interval every 20k (although I change the oil every 10k),

35 quid tax, 150 quid fully comp insurance and 70+ to the gallon on a long run. 60mpg the rest of the time. Very cheap motoring.

Great engine and good acceleration for a diesel, low ground clearance only drawback

Yup as said car running is cheap. My major problem right now is insurance. My old falling to bits civic is getting weighed in at the end of the month. Insurance renewal has come in and they want £2K. I played around with quotes and can't get it under £1900. Too much for me which means the bike is going to get used to commute on instead.

[SarahBell]

What do you reckon about me running my 35mpg Ford Focus into the ground rather than buying a better efficiency car?

How many miles a week do you do?

[chris25]

What do you reckon about me running my 35mpg Ford Focus into the ground rather than buying a better efficiency car?

Keep it, driving a fuel efficient car is (generally) a miserable experience. I have driven many 50mpg Polo's, Corsa's, Fiesta's and never had fun in any of them.

Life is too short!! I plan on selling my current modern car, and buying a car from the 90's and modding it, because the 90's were the last real decade for proper cars before all this safety/computer controlled/computer designed/crumple zone bullsh't came along, which has removed all spirit and character from virtually every automobile.

[LiveinHope]

Yup as said car running is cheap. My major problem right now is insurance. My old falling to bits civic is getting weighed in at the end of the month. Insurance renewal has come in and they want £2K. I played around with quotes and can't get it under £1900. Too much for me which means the bike is going to get used to commute on instead.

Either you are you are under 25, have a string of motoring offences or are a liability on the road

Try the Ecclesiastical Insurance Company, (especially if you have a diesel). They specialise in vicars but will insure anyone IIRC. No VI and not insured with them.

[LiveinHope]

the 90's were the last real decade for proper cars before all this safety/computer controlled/computer designed/crumple zone bullsh't came along, which has removed all spirit and character from virtually every automobile.

Biggest drawback has been the loss of glass at the back, and conseqeunlty a decent rearview, due to the need for a higher crumple zone at the rear.

Frustrating because it is now a tad harder to go backwards as fast as you can go forwards

(those in the SW will understand)

[ccc]

Buy a tool kit, my £200 of tools has paid itself back many times. Not to mention I do minor repairs and services on other peoples cars for ££. Though strangely self repair cannot beat kwikfit's oil change and filter change @ £25.

Changing suspension springs isn't hard. I managed a field repair on my motorbike after it collasped. You do have to be careful though as the springs are powerful enough to go right through you.

It's things like this which steer me towards the garage instead !!

Yup as said car running is cheap. My major problem right now is insurance. My old falling to bits civic is getting weighed in at the end of the month. Insurance renewal has come in and they want £2K. I played around with quotes and can't get it under £1900. Too much for me which means the bike is going to get used to commute on instead.

Why so high ? You are in your 30's no ?

[ken_ichikawa]

Either you are you are under 25, have a string of motoring offences or are a liability on the road

None of the above. I'm wrong side of 30, have a job, have 0 points, have always had 0 points, have held my licences for 10 years. Also not been claimed against or made claims.

Against is the fact that I don't own a home. I am also not married.

My driving history is patchy. I.e. I'll insure a car for a few months in the winter, scrap it and go back on the bike till the next winter. Thus years continuously driving collectively added up is probably 5-6 years. They want continuous years which equates to 1 right now.

Edited January 2, 2011 by ken_ichikawa

[ccc]

None of the above. I'm wrong side of 30, have a job, have 0 points, have always had 0 points, have held my licences for 10 years. Also not been claimed against or made claims.

Against is the fact that I don't own a home. I am also not married.

My driving history is patchy. I.e. I'll insure a car for a few months in the winter, scrap it and go back on the bike till the next winter. Thus years continuously driving collectively added up is probably 5-6 years. They want continuous years which equates to 1 right now.

Would it not be of benefit to just keep the insurance ongoing even if you are not using it ?

After 5 or so years your insurance should come down from 2k to more like 3-400. Would maybe work out cheaper in the long run ?

[guitarman001]

How many miles a week do you do?

Between 120 and 160 miles a week.

[Harry Monk]

Buy a tool kit, my £200 of tools has paid itself back many times. Not to mention I do minor repairs and services on other peoples cars for ££. Though strangely self repair cannot beat kwikfit's oil change and filter change @ £25.

I don't know if Kwik-Fit are the same but when I have watched similar organisations doing cheap oil changes, they don't drain the old oil by undoing the sump plug and allowing it to drain over 20 minutes or so, they suck (most of) the old oil out through the dipstick hole which leaves the worst of the sludge still in the sump.

[ken_ichikawa]

Would it not be of benefit to just keep the insurance ongoing even if you are not using it ?

After 5 or so years your insurance should come down from 2k to more like 3-400. Would maybe work out cheaper in the long run ?

Probably but as said I'm not exactly in a stable environment. I.e. what use was it to keep a car while I was gallivanting all over Siberia or my habit of vanishing off to Asia for 4 months every so often.

But the it should go down to 3-400 after 5 years isn't really true. Have a play round with those price comparisom websites. With 5 years NCB the best price I could get with a fictional alias who lives next door who has my exact life is still £1500. It is the same with many of my peers.

[ken_ichikawa]

I don't know if Kwik-Fit are the same but when I have watched similar organisations doing cheap oil changes, they don't drain the old oil by undoing the sump plug and allowing it to drain over 20 minutes or so, they suck (most of) the old oil out through the dipstick hole which leaves the worst of the sludge still in the sump.

Mercedes and BMW do this as well.

[Frank Hovis]

I don't know if Kwik-Fit are the same but when I have watched similar organisations doing cheap oil changes, they don't drain the old oil by undoing the sump plug and allowing it to drain over 20 minutes or so, they suck (most of) the old oil out through the dipstick hole which leaves the worst of the sludge still in the sump.

Eek!

Might go back to doing my own then. Or at least checking the drain plug which I will pop out and do now as my car needs a clean and I like any excuse to get my overalls on.

I stopped changing my oil after one cold windy morning led on the drive, when the flow slowed droplets of oil blew everywhere inlcuding in my face. Lovely.

[sleepwello'nights]

IWhat you want to do is work out what annual depreciation you are happy with and then what strategy works with that. I'm happy with £2k a year which means, with trade-in, a decent car every 4 years or so. There are several on here who want minimal deprecation so buy an £1k car and keep it for 4 years, I've done this in the past as well. Horses for courses.

That's the way I look at it.

Of course some people keep their cars until they fall to bits, just as some people keep wearing their underpants until they are full of holes.

I prefer to drive a nice car and change it when I feel like a change. Mind you my previous car I kept for 15 years, it was still really comfortable to drive and there were no mechanical problems. The air con pump needed attention and the specialist who bought said he always changed all the suspension rubber bushes as a matter of course because they hardened with age. Apart from that I'm sure it will go on for many more years.

I can rationalise a car purchase many ways. Two pints of beer a day for a year is £2k a year, i only drink occasionally so I can truthfully say instead of spending my money on beer I choose to spend it on a car.

And back to the post title I detect a resigned acceptance to fuel prices, no fury yet.

[ken_ichikawa]

Eek!

Might go back to doing my own then. Or at least checking the drain plug which I will pop out and do now as my car needs a clean and I like any excuse to get my overalls on.

I stopped changing my oil after one cold windy morning led on the drive, when the flow slowed droplets of oil blew everywhere inlcuding in my face. Lovely.

You should have driven it around first to warm the oil up thus accelerate the flow. Anyway many places suck the oil out as it means they don't have to redo the bolt up. Doing the bolt up too tight and breaking the threads (plug is usually hardened steel the sump is usually alloy) means expensive helicoiling!