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How Can This Be Legal


hedgefunded

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HOLA441
Guest Noodle

Not when attaching them, no. But they need to remain attached under a 30m/s wind.

But the ends of the wires need to be greased? :huh:

You need Mr Pin. Send him a PM.

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HOLA442
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HOLA443
Guest Noodle

Nothing electrical needs greasing. I was just asking if anyone, on the off chance, knew of something more secure than sticky tape that I could use. Trick of the trade or something.

Denzo tape might do it.

Or make your own using plastic sheet and contact adhesive.

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HOLA444

I want an 8 million piece iron filings and magnet drawing game. I hope Argos stock it (and not the crummy 6.5 million piece version).

wooly-willy.jpg

I bought one of those 6.5 million piece jobs. It was two pieces short. I took it back.

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HOLA445

Britool used to be good. For the home car mechanic bod, the Halfords stuff is remarkably good for the price. Other than that, Snap-On 3/8 with deal with pretty much anything in a normal car.

30 Kv In a in wind tunnel, I'd suggest a mechanical connection rather than adhesive. Don't wanna mess with 30 kV, it could really ruin your day.

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HOLA446
Guest Noodle

Britool used to be good. For the home car mechanic bod, the Halfords stuff is remarkably good for the price. Other than that, Snap-On 3/8 with deal with pretty much anything in a normal car.

30 Kv In a in wind tunnel, I'd suggest a mechanical connection rather than adhesive. Don't wanna mess with 30 kV, it could really ruin your day.

That's why I gave it a :lol: in the beginning.

Shocking. This chap shouldn't be anywhere near it.

He needs Mr. Pin, he's a top flight electrical engineer with 900,000 years experience.

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HOLA447

Britool used to be good. For the home car mechanic bod, the Halfords stuff is remarkably good for the price. Other than that, Snap-On 3/8 with deal with pretty much anything in a normal car.

30 Kv In a in wind tunnel, I'd suggest a mechanical connection rather than adhesive. Don't wanna mess with 30 kV, it could really ruin your day.

The difficulty is finding something slight enough that it won't interfere with the flow. Can you suggest a non-intrusive mechanical connection?

I realise I'm on borrowed time, what with the high voltage, a class 4 laser and the ozone produced during the process.

The things some of us do in the name of progress :lol::blink:

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HOLA448
Guest Noodle

The difficulty is finding something slight enough that it won't interfere with the flow. Can you suggest a non-intrusive mechanical connection?

I realise I'm on borrowed time, what with the high voltage, a class 4 laser and the ozone produced during the process.

The things some of us do in the name of progress :lol::blink:

PM Mr. Pin. He'll sort it out.

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HOLA449

The difficulty is finding something slight enough that it won't interfere with the flow. Can you suggest a non-intrusive mechanical connection?

I realise I'm on borrowed time, what with the high voltage, a class 4 laser and the ozone produced during the process.

The things some of us do in the name of progress :lol::blink:

I'm guessing you need to remove them again?

Could you use something like a dollop of glue from a hot melt glue gun and then just re-heat the glue to liquefy it to remove the wires.

Was going to say something like an Anderson connector but didn't understand you need low profile.

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HOLA4410

In 2001 or 2002 I bought a laptop from Argos (yeah I know, I deserved whatever is coming...). On the page the advert said "No need to be without your PC at any time. If it breaks we'll send someone to your home to repair it".

It did, so I asked them to. They told me to send it off by a courier and they'd get it back to me in 10-14 days. Argued. Told them I didn't want to be without it at any time etc... Their argument was that a laptop wasn't a PC, so the advert didn't apply.

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HOLA4411

I'm guessing you need to remove them again?

Could you use something like a dollop of glue from a hot melt glue gun and then just re-heat the glue to liquefy it to remove the wires.

Was going to say something like an Anderson connector but didn't understand you need low profile.

Won't stick to something covered in silicone.

Seriously, have any of you had any experience with silicone oil? It's a reet *******. Gets everywhere and once on, doesn't come off.

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HOLA4412

Can I ask for some sage advice re: electrical connectors.

I am using a 30kV power supply and am having trouble getting my high voltage and earth wires to stick to their relative contacts (have been using masking tape, duck tape, insulation tape).

Can anyone offer any suggestions of alternatives such as little crocodile clips? I really don't fancy electricuting myself if the wires come away.

You really should try duct tape:rolleyes:

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HOLA4413

I'm struggling with the problem here - should Argos demand wage slips and bank statements at the till to make sure you can afford it as well. To what degree do you want to be infantlilised by regulations?

Fair point, the picture is quite clear. And £3.99 FFS what do they want.

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HOLA4414

I'm trying to stick two copper wires to two pieces of aluminium tape. This is inside a wind tunnel operating at 30m/s and the silicone oil-based paint is used for flow visualisation so is liberally applied everywhere.

I want the wires to remain attached to the tape throughout operation so that it is easier (read less hazardous to my health) to earth the system between tests.

Curious, what are you useing the wind tunnel for? If my mental aritmetic is right 30 m/s is about 70mph, a car on a motorway or a light aircarft at lowish speed are the things that come to mind.

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HOLA4415

The difficulty is finding something slight enough that it won't interfere with the flow. Can you suggest a non-intrusive mechanical connection?

I realise I'm on borrowed time, what with the high voltage, a class 4 laser and the ozone produced during the process.

The things some of us do in the name of progress :lol::blink:

Have a look through these Connectors with a bit more detail I might be able to offer a more helpful solution.

To what are you making the connection?

How frequently will it be removed?

Riveting a spade connector to whatever it is will probably give you the best security and allow you to break the connection, although repeated connection/disconnection will loosen the female receptacle, the male should maintain its functionality.

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HOLA4421
Guest Noodle

Okay I've managed to open the OP's link.

It's not the £3.99. It's that it's a complete waste of resources making this thing and transporting it.

Those drill bit. You'd have more success using a defrosted pat of lard to drill a hole.

Some tool kit sets are useful, but most tools you are better off buying as separates, even drill bits.

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HOLA4422

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