Liquid Goldfish Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 (edited) delete Edited December 6, 2013 by oldsport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VeryMeanReversion Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I'm using a load of Siniat (LaFarge) Db Board. It's a heavy duty plasterboard (33kg/sheet), supposed to be good for up to 49db sound reduction. Two layers of that with battens between would be peaceful. You could stuff the inside with some sound insulation (rockwool type stuff) as well. I'm using earthwool for that. Ridgeons (trade merchants) had a good deal on the above this quarter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Barlow Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I have a couple of party walls in my flat that i'm looking to soundproof. Neighbours have the ocassional full on late party once in a while and i'm looking to have a crack at getting at least one bedroom wall soundproofed (or at least a decent reduction) Anyone done this or had the experience in doing this sort of work? Stud wall would lose too much room width so thinking more of 2" thick panels or similar. Density is your friend. Most practical sound proofing involves double boarded overlapped plasterboard and remember to tape the joints. If space is tight leadsheet is very good but you will need deep pockets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damik Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 has anybody tried noise canceling headphones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spxy Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I soundproofed our bathroom by simply building a false partition wall ( which was also handy to hide all the pipework. ) It cut out the sound massively, though you can still hear the power shower on the neighbours side when its on. Our attic also has a suspended floor ( which is the current building regs ) I can play music loudly in their and you can't hear it in the bedroom below…though if someone bangs the chimney 3 floors down you can hear it in the attic as if it was the same room, as the sound travels straight up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motch Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 (edited) Density is your friend. Most practical sound proofing involves double boarded overlapped plasterboard and remember to tape the joints. If space is tight leadsheet is very good but you will need deep pockets. yes from what i've gathered the density is the big factor, although does soft material absorb the sound better? eg the lead. An inch thick sheet of lead on the wall should do it! would probably weigh the same as a range rover though on a more serious note how thick/heavy are the leadsheets for a 5.5 sqm wall, how much price wise roughly ? I have a few ideas to look into. cheers. Any thoughts on that green glue acoustic sealant that seems to have almost magical properties? Edited December 6, 2013 by motch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy_renting Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I once read soundproofing a room is like trying to build a waterproof boat. One small crack or hole and the whole design is compromised... ^ This. You really have to seal the tiniest gaps, or even the thickest soundproofing will be rendered ineffective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liquid Goldfish Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 (edited) yes from what i've gathered the density is the big factor, although does soft material absorb the sound better? eg the lead. An inch thick sheet of lead on the wall should do it! would probably weigh the same as a range rover though on a more serious note how thick/heavy are the leadsheets for a 5.5 sqm wall, how much price wise roughly ? I have a few ideas to look into. cheers. Any thoughts on that green glue acoustic sealant that seems to have almost magical properties? It depends on what the existing separating wall is made of. Adding lead to an already dense wall, such as breeze block or brick, would make very little difference. There's a standard equation which shows this. But if it's a wooden partition then something dense like lead will help a lot more. But in addition flanking transmission is something you can't really deal with. Edited December 6, 2013 by oldsport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy_renting Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 It depends on what the existing separating wall is made of. Adding lead to an already dense wall, such as breeze block or brick, would make very little difference. There's a standard equation which shows this. But if it's a wooden partition then something dense like lead will help a lot more. But in addition flanking transmission is something you can't really deal with. Density may supresse some frequencies but not others. Basically, a sound barrier has to match the acoustic impedance of air as closely as possible. Cavities filled with light materials such as rockwool can do this effectively. Heavy materials will deaded high frequencies more than low frequencies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liquid Goldfish Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 (edited) Density may supresse some frequencies but not others. Basically, a sound barrier has to match the acoustic impedance of air as closely as possible. Cavities filled with light materials such as rockwool can do this effectively. Heavy materials will deaded high frequencies more than low frequencies. Isn't it the other way around? - heavy materials stop lower frequencies better than light materials? It's a mixture of mass, separation and good workmanship (even tiny gaps are a killer) A well isolated separating cavity wall has hugely better sound deadening than a solid wall of overall equal mass - even better if you put some lightweight rockwool in the gap. A lot of stuff on the internet seems based on American constructions where walls are made of wood - so, for example, green glue may help with these but may not improve a masonry partition. Edited December 6, 2013 by oldsport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erat_forte Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 yes from what i've gathered the density is the big factor, although does soft material absorb the sound better? eg the lead. An inch thick sheet of lead on the wall should do it! would probably weigh the same as a range rover though on a more serious note how thick/heavy are the leadsheets for a 5.5 sqm wall, how much price wise roughly ? I have a few ideas to look into. cheers. Any thoughts on that green glue acoustic sealant that seems to have almost magical properties? Gold is denser than lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motch Posted December 6, 2013 Author Share Posted December 6, 2013 Gold is denser than lead. I think my floor might take a Range Rover's worth of lead, but not a hummer's worth of gold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybernoid Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Gold is denser than lead. Wall up an estate agent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishfinger Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 I have a couple of party walls in my flat that i'm looking to soundproof. Neighbours have the ocassional full on late party once in a while and i'm looking to have a crack at getting at least one bedroom wall soundproofed (or at least a decent reduction) Anyone done this or had the experience in doing this sort of work? Stud wall would lose too much room width so thinking more of 2" thick panels or similar. I shall be having our party walls sound proofed in January. 2inch battens on the wall with rockwool and sound proofed boards all in all takes up about 4 inches. Costs about £1K a room to do but I'm getting the pros to do it. Bump this in mid jan and I'll give an update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy_renting Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 I shall be having our party walls sound proofed in January. 2inch battens on the wall with rockwool and sound proofed boards all in all takes up about 4 inches. Costs about £1K a room to do but I'm getting the pros to do it. Bump this in mid jan and I'll give an update. I think the only way for it to be effective is to build a 'floating room', as used in recording studios. Floor, ceiling and walls as a floating structure mechanically decoupled as far as possible from the building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papag Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 Been there! IMO, the only way is to go detached. As other have said, you're always going to get flanking transmission through the structure. Total separation is the only answer. 100% correct I tried everything ,nothing really worked may have dulled it a bit with acoustic boards with rockwool at the back of it but imo its money wasted . Move is the only real solution I did in the end, would hate to add up how much a young 16 year old lad with nil respect in a BTL adjoining property has cost me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Barlow Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 ^ This. You really have to seal the tiniest gaps, or even the thickest soundproofing will be rendered ineffective. Yup - think of a sea wall to deflect waves which has a hole in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Barlow Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 ^ This. You really have to seal the tiniest gaps, or even the thickest soundproofing will be rendered ineffective. Yup - think of a sea wall to deflect waves which has a hole in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowan Williams Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 I once saw this stuff on a 'help my house is falling down' type program which is made out of recycled tyres. It is very expensive but far more effective than rockwool. They used it to sound proof a kids band practice room built on the ground floor and central to the building. Even when the kids were banging and crashing their way through a few numbers the insulation was perfect Only trouble is they didn't tell you where to source the stuff and no builder I know has ever heard of it. I've tried looking for it online a number of times without joy. This doesn't solve the impact sound problem though. I spoke to a sound consultant who was doing some testing for me on my garage conversion. He said that the best thing between floors is 20mm gyproc suspended on tingles lying over the beams - in addition to a rockwool layer that is. So you have from bottom to top, plasterboard ceiling, rockwood layer, suspended gryproc, air space, first floor floorboards. I haven't tried it yet on my extension because it would mean ripping out all of the internal partiions but I plan to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Barlow Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 yes from what i've gathered the density is the big factor, although does soft material absorb the sound better? eg the lead. An inch thick sheet of lead on the wall should do it! would probably weigh the same as a range rover though on a more serious note how thick/heavy are the leadsheets for a 5.5 sqm wall, how much price wise roughly ? I have a few ideas to look into. cheers. Any thoughts on that green glue acoustic sealant that seems to have almost magical properties? I have seen code 3/4 sheet lead used to sound proof a theatre that was next door to a city centre pub. As a general rule of thumb if you want to deflect noise - dense materials and hard surfaces. If you need to absorb noise porous rough materials with lots of surface area - high density rockwool or polyurethane a good noise absorber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPin Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 I don't want to soundproof my house!`There are no noises here, apart from the M5, and Christians ringing bells on Sunday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kurt Barlow Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 I don't want to soundproof my house!`There are no noises here, apart from the M5, and Christians ringing bells on Sunday! I hear your neighbours are though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowan Williams Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 I don't want to soundproof my house!`There are no noises here, apart from the M5, and Christians ringing bells on Sunday! Damn those Christians, however, better than an Imam in training wailing his way through the Friday call to prayers. (I've lived next door to that) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowan Williams Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 However ... bingo! ... Eureka!... (and all that). If you do want to soundproof something, I think this is your solution: http://www.qtsoundcontrol.com/greenstory.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrPin Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 Damn those Christians, however, better than an Imam in training wailing his way through the Friday call to prayers. (I've lived next door to that) I was thinking just the same thing! But you know, some people move to the "sticks", and then don't like Church Bells! I'd pretty much not like a wailing mosque five times a day! Still I went to Egypt once, where that was normal! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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